Tuesday, May 21, 2013

BANDA NAIRA, BANDA


This is probably one of the most fascinating places on earth where it once, for better or worse (it was definitely worse for its native), helped in changing the course of world history. This tiny speak in vast ocean was the place where ancient sailors from Europe had to find after having to sail halfway around the world in hazardous voyages which sometimes took years to complete. Great many of them perished at sea. 

Highly sought after spices was the only reason why these islands became one of the most hotly contested places among European maritime powers. It was so valuable that Dutch  swapped what is now known as Manhattan for one of the remote islands in Banda Group. The area changed hands several times before the Dutch finally gained the full control of lucrative spice trade. It was however, black chapter in history of Banda which lasted for several hundred years.


It is peaceful and quiet now. Several silent witnesses are still standing today in town of Banda Naira such as fortresses, old building which some of are in relatively good condition. It has the charm of a small town where one can wander around town looking at old colonial houses, abandoned fortresses, often stumble across old cannons lying in the sidewalk. Impressive and menacing looking Gunung Api just across narrow channel looks too close for comfort, but somehow people are used to its potential danger. Approaching from the sea, Mount Api seems to rise majestically from ocean floor has been rather quiet since it blew its top in 1988. It has erupted number of time for the last several hundred years.

During colonial days, due to its remoteness, Banda was used as a place where the colonial Dutch exiled some of the future Indonesia leaders. This practice only ended when the Japanese invaded Indonesia during World War ll. For such a small place this place us rich in history. Standing on the formidable Fort Belgica located in commanding hill, one could feel the sense of history this place has. It was long and troubled history indeed.

But history is not only reasons why this only reasons why this place is worth visiting. This area is also well known for its world class dive sites. Several dive operatos set up their shops here. Typically boats that come here would anchor their boats or moored stern to Laguna Hotel's sea wall and just enjoying the scenery around Banda Naira or surrounding islands.

PLACE TO ANCHOR

Boat has to anchor close to shore because the channel is too deep.  Last year about twenty boats dropped their anchors in the front of Laguna Hotel and have their stern line attached to shore. Although they still had to use their dinghy, it was rather safe and convenient.  Rhe harbor itself is very well protected. Except for the depth this is one of the best natural harbors anywhere.

RESTAURANTS

There are several Restaurants in town. Delfika Cafe and Mutiara are highly recommended for their local cuisine. One of local specialty is fish in nutmeg fruit sauce and egg plant with kenari based sauce.


POINT OF INTERESTS

There are numerous old colonial houses, church, some abandoned fortresses (except Fort Belgica which is well preserved).



Trip up to the top of Gunung Api is highly recommended. although is only around 600 meters high, view from the top is just spectacular.

Trip to nearby islands to visit nutmeg plantations should be an interesting one not only due to how close it was entwined into history of Banda but also to the importance it is to local economy.



                       Public jetty


MARKET

There is a traditional market within walking distance (everything is within walking distance here). Almost everything have to be brought here, so the prices is slightly higher from the mainland. 

Fish market is right next to traditional market. Come early Street vendors sell smoked fish, preserved nutmeg slices and some other snacks.







ATM

There is only one ATM (BRI) in town. Power outage is quite frequents here, so it only works as long electricity is on. It is located about 500 meters from the dock.


COMMUNICATION

Telkomsel works here although the internet connection is rather slow. Top up cards are available.

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